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Skin, ageing and wellbeing

Peptides are found in everything from skin creams to nasal sprays and injections. Here we explain the difference between cosmetics, supplements and medicines, and what the studies show.

Close-up of an eye and skin in sunlight

Peptides in this topic

All peptides
  • GHK-CuCosmetic ingredient

    A copper peptide found naturally in the body and an established skincare ingredient, allowed in cosmetics in the EU.

    Early human studies
  • Melanotan IIResearch compound

    A synthetic version of the hormone that darkens the skin. Studied for tanning and for erections, and now in a new study on vitiligo.

    Early human studies
  • SemaxResearch compound

    A Russian peptide based on part of the hormone ACTH. Studied after stroke and for its effects on the brain.

    Early human studies
  • KPVResearch compound

    Three amino acids from a hormone that calms inflammation. Promising in mice with gut inflammation.

    Lab and animal studies

Peptides in skincare and wellbeing

Peptides are common ingredients in skin creams and serums. These are products you can buy freely in shops and online. Here you can see what the research says about them, from the laboratory to large pooled analyses.

GHK-Cu: the copper peptide in skincare

GHK-Cu is a small copper peptide found naturally in the body. It is a permitted cosmetic ingredient in the EU, and often appears as copper tripeptide-1 on the ingredient list.[1] In the laboratory, GHK-Cu influences connective tissue renewal and skin healing.[2] Read about GHK-Cu

Peptides for skin, gut and brain

  • Melanotan II is a synthetic version of the hormone that darkens the skin, and gave darker skin as early as a study from 1996.[3] Read about melanotan II
  • KPV is made of three amino acids from an anti-inflammatory hormone, and calmed gut inflammation in mice.[4] Read about KPV
  • Semax is a peptide from Russia studied after stroke, with better recovery of daily functioning.[5] Read about Semax

Choosing skincare with peptides

Look for products with a clear ingredient list, where the peptide is named.

Questions and answers

Do peptides in skin cream work?

Some peptides, such as GHK-Cu, have shown promising effects in the laboratory, and the first studies in humans have been done. Larger studies will show how much it means for the skin over time.

What is copper tripeptide-1?

It is the name for GHK-Cu on skincare ingredient lists. It is a permitted cosmetic ingredient in the EU.

Sources

  1. [1]

    CosIng: Copper Tripeptide-1 (cosmetic ingredient). European Commission. 2026.

    European CommissionOfficial source

  2. [2]

    Mateescu DM, et al. GHK-Cu as a Bioactive Metallopeptide and Drug-Delivery Cargo: Coordination Chemistry, Formulation Science, Therapeutic Evidence, and a Translational Roadmap. Pharmaceutics. 2026.

    PMID 42797253DOIMeta-analysis

  3. [3]

    Dorr RT, Lines R, Levine N, et al. Evaluation of melanotan-II, a superpotent cyclic melanotropic peptide in a pilot phase-I clinical study. Life Sci. 1996.

    PMID 8637402DOIPilot study · n = 3

  4. [4]

    Dalmasso G, Charrier-Hisamuddin L, Nguyen HT, et al. PepT1-mediated tripeptide KPV uptake reduces intestinal inflammation. Gastroenterology. 2008.

    PMID 18061177DOIAnimal study

  5. [5]

    Gusev EI, et al. The efficacy of semax in the treatment of patients at different stages of ischemic stroke. In Russian. Zh Nevrol Psikhiatr Im S S Korsakova. 2018.

    PMID 29798983DOIControlled study · n = 110